Bathed in spring sunlight, sipping on iced coffee and surrounded by young people playing backgammon, this hardly feels like anarchist central. Yet many Greeks still steer clear of Exarcheia, widely known for its politicised riots and molotov cocktail-throwing far left gangs.

Neoclassical buildings with wrought iron balconies host a plague of graffiti. Tags from the inane to the profane mark each and every wall – a reminder of the area’s antiestablishment ties.